Tuesday, 21 July 2009

Xī'ān (西安), more than some famed warriors

In our trip to China in 2008, one of the obligatory points was Xī'ān (西安), because in the outskirts of this city are the so famed Terracota warriors located. The visit to the warriors was incredible, no doubt, and I'll talk about it later. The part I want to share this time concerns to the Xī'ān (西安) city, which was only in our plans as a strategic point to see the Terracota warriors and we should spend just some hours there and leave, but our experience there was so nice that we made a change in our itinerary and came back to visit it a bit more.

Located more or less in the middle of China and a bit to the East, Xī'ān (西安) was in certain moment the capital of this country. It is the capital of the Shǎnxī (陕西) or Shaanxi province (Do not confuse it with Shānxī 山西!) and its one of the ends of the Silk Road.

It was at night that we arrived to Xī'ān (西安), coming from Shànghǎi (上海) and we went directly to our hostel, the Xiangzimen Youth Hostel (湘子门青年旅舍). An ancient Chinese building adapted as a hostel, with a fabulous decoration, very gently staff and even a small pub was our home that night and received us with a really luxurious room considering it was a hostel. It was the welcome Xī'ān (西安) had for us and at the same time an invitation to stay there longer.

The next morning we did a little walk around the hostel. Ancient houses, temples and small streets that leaded us to avenues with modern buildings. Our feet walked over a majestic city and our eyes were confirming it. We continued with our plan after that, visited the Terracota warriors place and came back in the evening to take the train to our next destination.

As our taxi was getting closer to the train station, the smalls streets and the people there seemed to say "don't go!", "stay a bit longer!". Finally, the car stopped. We took our backpacks. The Sun was dropping its last light rays over a big station, preceded by a square and the city wall. An impresive amount of people was there, witnessing the same panorama but, surely, without having the same feelings than us.

Because of destiny ups and downs, in the next point of our trip, things accomplished their usual whim of getting off the plan and we had to make some adjustments. We evaluated our options and decided unanimously come back to Xī'ān (西安) and know a bit more.

Once again at night, once again the Xiangzimen (湘子门青年旅舍) and the impression of having come back home. We left our things and went to the small pub of the hostel, where we were laughing and enjoying a great time. While we were drinking our beers, we drawed a couple of Mexican flags to complete the flags decoration made by the travelers themselves.

The next day we went out to take a walk, enjoying everything that we saw. Streets and avenues combining modernity with History. The problems that an old man was having to cross the street and not be run over by the cars contrasted with a river, a city wall, statues of ancient lions and all the History enclosed by this city.


No doubt, the city wall is a great attraction. It can be seen everywhere and it can be climbed. We did it. It was a long walk that included frequently ancient buildings (nowadays adapted as stores! :( ) and that gave us a very nice perspective of Xī'ān (西安). That enjoyable combination of modernity and History that I talk about could be seen. Suddenly, we saw a completely ancient zone, inviting us to go down and know it. The invitation was not rejected.

Thousands of people, so many stores and stands where anyone could buy everything, no matter if it was chopsticks, musical artifacts, paintbrushes, clothes... everything. A man painting with water ephemeral hànzi (汉子) or Chinese symbols on the floor. China and its art of bargaining were perfectly incarnated in that neighbourhood. If you wanted to buy nothing, you came out with something. If you wanted to buy something, you came out with a lot.

Later, we went out and looked for another emblematic Xī'ān's (西安) place: Dàyàn Tǎ (大雁塔) or the Great Goose Pagoda. A woman some days before had told us to visit it. It was a shame we just had few time to visit the zone. We came to a modern public square with gardens, wide ways and statues. It was impeccable and in certain way the atmosphere was more commercial than traditional, thing that made me noise in a manner of speaking. We walked more, against the clock and finally could see the pagoda. Time to go back to the hostel, take our things and leave towards our next destination: Běijīng (北京).


Where is it?


Larger map


To know more...

Xī'ān (西安) at the Wikipedia
Xī'ān (西安) at Lonely Planet

Other references

Xiangzimen Youth Hostel (湘子门青年旅舍)